Brunello di Montalcino: A Tuscan Legend in a Glass

alessiabizzarri
Oct 1
5 min read

A Wine Born from Vision

Every great wine carries a story, and few are as rich as that of Brunello di Montalcino. Imagine Tuscany in the mid-1800s: rolling hills, small farms, and a grape—Sangiovese—grown almost everywhere but rarely celebrated on its own. In the town of Montalcino, a pharmacist named Clemente Santi believed Sangiovese had more potential than anyone imagined.

Instead of blending it with other grapes, as was customary, Santi vinified it alone, aged it carefully, and created a wine unlike any other in Italy at the time. His grandson, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, carried that vision forward. By the late 19th century, Ferruccio had given the wine its name: Brunello, meaning “little brown one,” a nod to the deep color of the Sangiovese Grosso clone grown around Montalcino.

These early pioneers weren’t just making wine; they were challenging tradition and laying the foundation for one of the world’s most iconic red wines.

Montalcino: A Land of Contrasts

Montalcino itself is a character in this story. The medieval town, crowned by its fortress built in 1361, looks out across valleys of olive groves, cypress trees, and vineyards. The terroir is diverse: in the north, cooler breezes from Mount Amiata give freshness and perfume; in the south, hotter sun ripens grapes into bold, powerful wines.

For centuries, Montalcino’s isolation preserved its traditions. Until the 1960s, it was a sleepy agricultural community better known for honey than wine. Brunello was a curiosity, produced in tiny quantities by just a handful of families—most famously, the Biondi-Santis, who guarded their methods like a secret recipe.

From Obscurity to Prestige

The world’s first encounter with Brunello as a serious wine came in 1865, when Clemente Santi’s vintage won a medal at an agricultural fair in Montepulciano. But it wasn’t until the 20th century that Brunello began to rise to fame.

After World War II, Italy was rebuilding, and so was its wine culture. For decades, Brunello was made only by the Biondi-Santi estate, whose long-lived wines stunned collectors. One legendary bottle, the 1888 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, is still cited as one of the earliest examples of an Italian red designed for long aging—proof that this wine could rival Bordeaux or Burgundy in longevity.

As the reputation spread, more families began planting Sangiovese in Montalcino. In the 1960s, only about a dozen producers existed; today, there are more than 200. But the DNA of Brunello—100% Sangiovese Grosso, aged with patience and respect—remains intact.

The Rules That Shape Brunello

Brunello’s prestige is built on strict rules, designed to protect its integrity:

100% Sangiovese Grosso – no blending, no shortcuts.
Aging: at least 5 years before release, including 2 in oak and 4 months in bottle.
Riserva: 6 years of aging.
Rosso di Montalcino: a “baby Brunello,” aged just 1 year, offering a glimpse of Montalcino at a younger stage.

These rules mean that every bottle of Brunello carries with it time, patience, and the discipline of tradition.

What Brunello Tastes Like

Tasting Brunello is like stepping into Tuscany itself. The aromas are layered: ripe cherries, dried figs, violets, leather, tobacco, forest floor, and sometimes balsamic herbs. Young Brunello feels powerful, with firm tannins and vibrant acidity. With age, it becomes silkier, unveiling earthy complexity and haunting elegance.

A good Brunello isn’t just a drink—it’s a journey across decades, revealing something new each time you return to it.

People and Anecdotes that Shaped Brunello

The Biondi-Santis: Known as the “royal family of Brunello,” their cellars safeguarded historic vintages that proved the wine’s aging power. Their 1888, 1891, and 1925 vintages became legends, opening the doors of international recognition.
Franco Biondi-Santi: Ferruccio’s grandson, who continued the legacy through the 20th century, was known for his obsession with tradition, famously saying, “Brunello must be made as my grandfather made it.”
The Brunellogate Scandal (2008): In modern times, Brunello faced controversy when some producers were accused of blending non-Sangiovese grapes to make wines more approachable. The scandal shook the region, but ultimately reaffirmed the commitment to purity and authenticity, strengthening Brunello’s reputation.

These human stories—of visionaries, guardians, and controversies—make Brunello more than just wine. They make it a saga.

Exceptional Vintages and Prestigious Bottles

Part of Brunello’s mystique comes from its legendary vintages. Collectors and sommeliers still revere bottles like the Biondi-Santi 1888 Riserva (considered the first Brunello ever released commercially) and the 1925 Riserva, which survived wars and upheavals to prove the wine’s extraordinary longevity. In the modern era, vintages such as 1990, 1997, 2001, 2006, 2010, 2015, and 2016 are celebrated for their balance, structure, and aging potential. Top producers—like Biondi-Santi, Soldera, Poggio di Sotto, and Casanova di Neri—have bottles that command thousands of euros at auction, standing shoulder to shoulder with Bordeaux First Growths and Burgundy Grands Crus. These vintages aren’t just wines; they are pieces of history in liquid form.

New Excellence: Recent Vintages at Accessible Prices still

While Brunello is often associated with luxury, recent vintages such as 2019 and 2020 show exceptional quality. The advantage is that they can also be found at surprisingly approachable prices. These years delivered wines of remarkable balance, freshness, and early drinkability, making them excellent choices for wine lovers who want to experience Brunello without breaking the bank. A standout example is Brunello San Carlo by Marcucci, a small family-run production (led by a strong woman) that has gained attention for its authenticity and finesse.

Wines like this, often praised in guides such as the AIS Vitae, demonstrate how dedication and terroir can shine without the prestige price tag. With vibrant cherry fruit, floral lift, and fine tannins, these Brunellos are approachable now but still built to evolve. They remind us that Montalcino is not only about iconic names but also about discovering hidden gems crafted with passion and tradition.

Brunello Today and Tomorrow

Today, Brunello di Montalcino is a global icon. Collectors pay high sums for top vintages, and sommeliers around the world consider it a cornerstone of Italian fine wine. Yet at its heart, Brunello remains tied to Montalcino’s hills, its fortress, and its families.

Visiting the town is a pilgrimage for wine lovers. Walking the cobbled streets, tasting in historic cellars, and watching the sun set over vineyards while sipping a glass of Brunello is an experience that connects past, present, and future.

Events like Benvenuto Brunello, where each new vintage is unveiled in February, celebrate not just the wine but the culture and community that sustain it.

Final Thoughts

Brunello di Montalcino is more than a wine; it’s a story of visionaries like Clemente and Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, of a town that rose from obscurity, and of a grape that found its most noble expression on the Tuscan hills.

To drink Brunello is to taste history, tradition, and the resilience of a region that has guarded its treasure with passion and pride. One sip, and you’re not just tasting wine—you’re stepping into Tuscany’s living legend.

✨ If you’d like to deepen your knowledge and taste Brunello firsthand, join us at our upcoming Wine Courses and Brunello Event set for the 2nd December 2025 in Brussels, 18:30, in our venue.