Rediscovering the Hidden Treasures of Tuscany: My Journey with Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo

Tuscany wine is world-renowned for its iconic varieties like Sangiovese, Brunello, and Chianti. Yet, beyond these celebrated names, there lies a fascinating world of lesser-known native grapes that have shaped the region’s viticultural heritage. As a sommelier deeply passionate about Tuscany’s diverse terroirs, I have recently explored four such varieties: Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo. These grapes, once overshadowed by the rise of Brunello and Chianti, are now making a quiet but compelling comeback. Their unique profiles offer fresh tasting experiences that invite wine lovers to rediscover Tuscany’s rich, layered history.

Pugnitello grape clusters in Tuscan vineyard

The Forgotten Grapes of Tuscany

Historically, Tuscany’s winemakers favored Sangiovese-based blends, especially as Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico gained international fame. This focus led to the gradual decline of several native varieties, including Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo. These grapes were often “sacrificed” or “discarded” in favor of the more commercially viable and internationally recognized wines.

• Pugnitello was once widely cultivated in the hills of central Tuscany but nearly vanished by the mid-20th century.

• Foglia Tonda earned its name from the round shape of its leaves but was overshadowed by more dominant red varieties.

• Colorino was traditionally used as a blending grape to add color and tannins but rarely bottled on its own.

• Mammolo is known for its distinctive floral aroma but was often relegated to minor blending roles.

  
  

Today, a new generation of producers is reviving these grapes, recognizing their potential to express Tuscany’s terroir in fresh and exciting ways.

What These Grapes Bring to the Glass

Each of these varieties offers distinct tasting notes that set them apart from the classic Tuscan wines, yet they share a connection to the region’s character.

Pugnitello

Pugnitello produces wines with a deep ruby color and a medium body. On the nose, expect wild berries, black cherry, and subtle hints of spice. The palate reveals firm but smooth tannins, with earthy undertones and a touch of leather. Compared to Brunello, Pugnitello wines are lighter and more approachable in their youth, making them excellent for early drinking without sacrificing complexity.

Rediscovered and repropagated in the 1980s from near-extinct material, Pugnitello is one of the most emblematic cases of modern ampelographic recovery.

In the glass:

• Deep, almost opaque ruby

• Black plum, blackberry, myrtle

• Iron-like, ferrous nuances, dark spice, sometimes graphite

• Dense tannic core, firm but not coarse

• Long, structured finish

Comparison with great Tuscan wines (Brunello, Chianti Classico):Where Sangiovese (the backbone of both Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico) is defined by acidity, red fruit, and linearity, Pugnitello operates on a different axis: depth over tension, mass over verticality.

In blends, it acts as a structural enhancer—adding color stability, mid-palate weight, and aging potential. In pure form, it can feel closer—conceptually—to certain Bordeaux varieties in terms of density, yet retains a distinctly Mediterranean aromatic profile.

Foglia Tonda

Foglia Tonda is prized for its fresh acidity and bright red fruit aromas, such as raspberry and cranberry. It often shows herbal notes reminiscent of Mediterranean scrub. The wine tends to be lighter in color and body than Chianti, with a lively, almost playful character. Its crispness makes it a perfect match for lighter Tuscan dishes, such as grilled vegetables or fresh pecorino cheese.

aved from oblivion through clonal selection programs, Foglia Tonda is increasingly relevant in a warming climate.

In the glass:

• Bright ruby, more translucent than Pugnitello

• Red cherry, pomegranate, cranberry

• Floral lift (rose petals), light spice

• Vibrant acidity, fine-grained tannins

• Juicy, agile, highly drinkable

Comparison:If Sangiovese is the reference point for freshness in Tuscany, Foglia Tonda can amplify that dimension while softening angularity.

Compared to Brunello:

• Less austere, less age-dependent

• More immediate aromatic expressiveness

Compared to Chianti Classico:

• Similar freshness, but often more rounded and less nervy

It is particularly effective in blends where the objective is to retain energy without sharpness—a key stylistic shift in modern Tuscan winemaking.

Colorino

Colorino is a powerhouse when it comes to color and tannins. It brings deep purple hues and robust structure to blends but also shines on its own with flavors of black plum, blackberry, and a hint of violet. The tannins are firm but well-integrated, offering excellent aging potential. Compared to Chianti’s Sangiovese dominance, Colorino adds a darker, more intense profile that can surprise even seasoned tasters.

Historically relegated to a technical role—enhancing color in blends—Colorino is now being re-evaluated as a standalone variety.

In the glass:

• Very deep, inky color (as the name implies)

• Black cherry, blueberry, wild herbs

• Balsamic hints, sometimes resinous notes

• Firm tannins, slightly rustic if not controlled

• Powerful, gripping finish

Comparison:In traditional Chianti blends, Colorino functioned as a supporting actor, correcting the lighter hue of Sangiovese.

Today, in pure vinifications:

• It shows more wildness and untamed character than Brunello

• Less elegance than top Sangiovese expressions, but more visceral intensity

Think of it as adding volume and shadow to the brightness of Sangiovese.

Mammolo

Mammolo stands out for its distinctive floral bouquet, often described as violet or lavender, combined with red fruit notes like cherry and pomegranate. It adds aromatic complexity and softness to blends but also produces elegant single-varietal wines. Mammolo’s delicate perfume contrasts with the more rustic and earthy tones typical of many Tuscany wines, offering a refreshing alternative for those seeking something different. Mammolo is perhaps the most delicate and overlooked of the group, yet historically present in many Tuscan blends.

In the glass:

• Medium ruby

• Distinct violet (mammola), lavender

• Red berries, light spice

• Soft tannins, moderate structure

• Elegant, perfumed finish

Comparison:Mammolo contributes something Sangiovese does not naturally emphasize: pure floral aromatics.

In Brunello or Chianti contexts:

• It enhances bouquet complexity

• Adds approachability and softness

On its own, it lacks the structure of Brunello-level wines, but in blends it acts like a fine aromatic brushstroke, often unnoticed but essential.

Glass of Colorino wine showcasing deep red color and clarity

Comparing These Grapes to Tuscany’s Greats

The dominance of Brunello and Chianti in Tuscany’s wine scene has shaped perceptions of what a Tuscan wine should be. Brunello, made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, is known for its power, structure, and longevity. Chianti, often a blend centered on Sangiovese, balances acidity and fruitiness with earthy undertones.

The four grapes I’ve explored offer both contrasts and complements to these giants:

• Pugnitello shares some of Brunello’s earthiness but is less tannic and more fruit-forward.

• Foglia Tonda contrasts with Chianti’s robust profile by offering a lighter, fresher style.

• Colorino enhances blends with deeper color and tannins, providing a backbone that Sangiovese alone sometimes lacks.

• Mammolo introduces floral aromatics rarely found in mainstream Tuscany wines, adding a layer of elegance.

  
  

These grapes remind us that Tuscany wine is not a single story but a collection of diverse voices, each contributing to the region’s complexity.

Why These Grapes Are Making a Comeback

Their decline was not accidental—it is systemic.

Between the late 19th century and especially the post-war period (1950s–1980s), Tuscan viticulture underwent radical transformation:

• Phylloxera crisis (late 1800s) → replanting favored more reliable, productive varieties

• Sharecropping (mezzadria) collapse → push toward efficiency and standardization

• Rise of DOC/DOCG systems (1960s–1980s) → codification of Sangiovese dominance

• Global market pressures (1980s–2000s) → demand for consistency and recognizability

• Emergence of Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico as international benchmarks

In this context, “minor” grapes were gradually discarded (“scaricati”) because:

• lower yields

• irregular ripening

• harder to vinify consistently

• not aligned with emerging commercial styles

Even Colorino and Mammolo—once integral to Chianti blends—were reduced to marginal roles or removed entirely in pursuit of stylistic clarity.

The resurgence of Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo reflects a broader trend in the wine world: a renewed interest in indigenous varieties and traditional winemaking. Winemakers and consumers alike seek authenticity and uniqueness, moving beyond the familiar to explore hidden gems.

This revival also honors Tuscany’s history. In the past, economic pressures and market demands pushed growers to focus on a few key varieties. Now, with more attention to quality and terroir expression, these minor grapes are reclaiming their place.

Join Us for a Tasting Experience

I invite you to join our upcoming tasting evenings where we showcase these fascinating grapes. Experiencing Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo side by side reveals their distinct personalities and the stories they tell about Tuscany’s soil, climate, and culture.

These events are perfect for sommeliers, wine professionals, and enthusiasts eager to deepen their knowledge and palate. Tasting these wines will expand your understanding of Tuscany wine beyond the usual suspects and inspire new pairings and recommendations.

Rustic Tuscan table with bottles

Embrace Tuscany’s Lesser-Known Gems

Exploring Pugnitello, Foglia Tonda, Colorino, and Mammolo opens a new chapter in appreciating Tuscany wine. These grapes offer fresh aromas, flavors, and textures that complement the region’s classics while standing firmly on their own.